Soap stones from the base, recipe and master class with photos. Soap opera

Recently, crafts and any creative things made with your own hands have become very popular. This also includes soap making, in the wake of the popularization of environmentally friendly clean products Now it is very fashionable and useful for your own skin to make your own soap to suit your needs, because as we know, everyone’s skin is different: some have very dry, sensitive skin, while others are prone to oiliness.

However, in addition to its usefulness, another advantage of making your own soap is: interesting natural color, patterns, natural smell, healthy essential and base oils that you can add to soap according to your desire and preferences. Naturally, such beneficial ingredients are rarely found in mass-produced soap.

You will need:

• soapy clear and white Crystal base;
• food coloring
• heat-resistant glass measuring cup;
• molds, molds;
• silicone, sealant;
• scissors;
• stationery knife;
• scotch;
• wooden stick (stirrer).

Let's get to work! Instructions:

1. In order to create your own molds for soap, you need to: dissolve detergent in water (one to ten), stir, then pour in silicone/sealant. Try to knead it, knead it, stretch it like dough. Let the silicone sit in the water for about five minutes. Next, take it out of the water and form a ball, do not dry it, but immediately place it in a container or jar - the silicone will take its shape, the basis of the future mold. Press down on top with another jar (shown in the photo) and leave it alone for a couple of hours.

Once the time is up, remove the jars and rinse the molds thoroughly, they are ready to use!

1. Cut off approximately the amount of soap base you will need, then cut into pieces, place in a heatproof measuring cup or other heat-resistant container and microwave for 30-45 seconds to melt the soap base. However, if the soap is still hard, put it in the oven for a while to finish melting.

1. Next, use food coloring to give the soap the desired color. Mix everything thoroughly and pour into the mold.
2. Now leave the soap to harden, to do this, leave it in a dark, cool place for 12-20 hours, but to speed up this time, you can put the soap in the refrigerator for a couple of hours (away from food).
3. You can use dyes of different colors - look how many soaps of different colors there are in the photo.

1. Next we make a second mold from silicone.

Shown in detail in the photos below.

You will receive different soap “stones” depending on the chosen color scheme and the structure - on how you lay out the color bars.

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Making soap at home is a lot of fun. After all, you can come up with soap of any shape, flavor it with any scent. And you can even make a stone! Maybe it will be amethyst, or maybe malachite. You can make rubies, diamonds, diamonds - anything! Decorate your bathtub with extras precious stones, which will also be very beneficial for your skin.

Do you want to make stones like this? It's easy!

1. Transparent base

2. Any plastic (or silicone) mold. Soap stones are wonderful because you don’t need special molds to make them! A yogurt container (not drinking yogurt) or, as in our case, a package of cheese cheese is perfect. The main thing is that the mold is deep. Six to eight centimeters will be just right.

3. Dye of any one color. It is better to use liquid non-migratory pigment (on the right in the picture) because it is easier to handle, but you can also use dry pigment (on the left in the picture).

4. A little liquid oil to make our pebble not only beautiful, but also useful. It is better to avoid using avocado oil, wheat germ oil, castor oil and all the others that like to cloud the base. Macadamia oil works well.

5. Smell. It could be a flavoring, or it could be essential oil. But it is advisable to use one composition for all soap. How to choose a scent for a stone? Think about what you associate the color of your future stone with. For example, let's say you chose a pink pigment. Perhaps a cherry or rose flavor would suit you. If the stone is blue, you can try the sea scent. Well, for green, pine needles essential oil is quite suitable.

6. Tools for work - a couple of spoons (large and small), several canapé sticks or sushi sticks. We can use knitting needles and anything that will help us pierce the soap :) We also need a container in which we will melt the base.

7. White base. We only need a little bit of it. Literally 50 grams. Even less than shown in the picture below. In principle, you can do without it, but then the pebble will look like the pink one from the picture above, and not like the green one.

8. To make the soap even more interesting, we can use mica. In principle, you can also do without it, but it will be more interesting with it. The color can be any.

9. Alcohol in a spray bottle to kill bubbles. In this case, you can use vodka. If bubbles remain, they are not so bad in the stone, believe me.

10. A couple of hours of your time.

That's all. We collect all the components of the future soapstone in one place so that everything is at hand at the right time. And let's get started! Don't forget that you will definitely succeed.

We turn a large piece of transparent base into many small pieces.

We put most of it into a container in which the base will melt, but we leave a few chopped pieces! They can be cut smaller and not necessarily in the form of squares. The pieces should be no more than one and a half centimeters in length-width-height, or less.

We melt the base that we placed in the container using any in a convenient way. For example, using a microwave. Or in a water bath.
While the base is melting, let's not waste time.

Since we are using dry pigment, we need to dissolve it. If you have liquid, non-migratory pigment, you can skip this step. For this you can use oil, or you can use alcohol. Literally three drops.

We don’t skimp on the pigment, we need a rich color. In this case, the color is uneven because we added a few grains of natural menthol. Just because I wanted to. If you also want to experiment, feel free.

To make the layers in our future soap look more interesting, the mold can be tilted a little. To do this, we will substitute the first thing that comes to hand under it. For example, a butter cap.

Has the base melted? Add scent to it. And, without mixing in the dye, pour just a little bit into the mold to form a layer of about a centimeter. Sprinkle with alcohol.

Now we take just a little bit of dye (or liquid pigment) diluted in oil/alcohol and drop it into the base.

Mix.

We wait a couple of minutes - most likely, this will be enough for a film to form on the transparent layer. It’s easy to check if it’s there: blow on the surface. If the waves don't come, then everything is fine.

It is better to pour the base into the mold using a large spoon - there is less chance of tearing the film.

Have you forgotten that we deliberately left a few pieces of transparent base? Now they will be useful to us. We throw them into the mold, where we just poured the slightly colored melted mass. It is important to throw them in while the mass is still hot enough so that they seem to melt into it.

Sprinkle with alcohol. Now the butter cover can be removed from under the mold: let it stand horizontally.

To make the design more interesting, pierce the mixture in the mold in several places using skewers.

With each subsequent fill, our base should become brighter and brighter. Therefore, we add a little more diluted dry pigment or liquid non-migrating pigment.

The color has become more saturated - and that's good!

To enhance the effect, we can take mika and sprinkle just a little on the mass, which hardens in the mold. And then pour another thin layer with a spoon. Spritz with alcohol.

In a good way, while you are once again adding pigment to the base, the mass in the mold will have time to be covered with a film. But it's better to check every time. And don’t be afraid - if during the manipulations your base cools down too much and starts to harden, you can warm it up a little (in the microwave or in a water bath).

Now let's try another way to make our soap even more beautiful. Let's open the mika.

We thread one of the pieces of the transparent base we have stored onto a skewer.

And... we dip a piece directly into mika! He should only gently touch the miki and be covered with the thinnest layer of sparkles.

It is absolutely not necessary to cover the piece with mikoy on all sides.

Again, slightly tint the melted base.

And again pour it into the mold with a spoon.

The more layers you make, the smoother the color transition in your stone will be. But don’t get carried away too much - five or six layers will be enough.

Throw the transparent pieces, tinted with mika, into the mold.

Let's try to take our butter lid again and place it under the mold. That's more interesting!

A couple more times we go through the stage of coloring - pouring into the mold - spray with alcohol.

Throw in transparent pieces.

If you have Mica, you can add a little to your base to make the color even more interesting.

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Or you can try this method. Take a skewer and dip it in mika

And then you pierce the mass in the mold in random places.

When there is about one centimeter of free space left in our mold, we send several pieces of the white base for melting.

And the most interesting thing: pour it directly into the mold! It's better not to pour into one point. It’s better to write, for example, an eight.

To prevent the white layer from settling on top, take a skewer and pierce the mass right to the very bottom. And... we draw a circle (the tip of the skewer at the bottom remains in place). You can pierce the mass in one place, or in several.

Now we wait. I really want to see what you got there, but be patient: the mass must cool completely. This will take at least an hour.

When the mass has cooled, carefully remove it from the mold (to do this, the mold can be stretched in different directions). The block doesn't look much like a stone yet. But we will help him now. We take a knife in our hands (with a smooth cutting surface) and...

First, cut off a piece. A block of this size will yield from three to six pebbles (depending on the desired shape and size).

And now we depict the sculptor. We cut off all excess from the piece. Don't be sorry, cut boldly! You don't have to throw away the scraps. They can be put in a bag, and then, if necessary, used to prepare another pebble.

If you want to make an oval or round pebble, warm water will help you get rid of the edges. Just place your soap stone under the stream.

These are the pebbles we got!

In the same simple way you can make such pebbles

Just skip the white base step!

Everything is very easy, isn't it?

Good afternoon

I would like to share with you my master class on making soap stones. The process is not for beginners, but for those who already have experience working with soap base.

To create soap stones we will need:

The soap base is clear and white (I used titanium dioxide)

Dyes (green), mother of pearl (gold, emerald), blue cosmetic clay

Flavoring

Cosmetic oil

Toothpicks, containers, etc.

Cut the soap base into small pieces and place in a container. Melt in the microwave or in a water bath. When the base is melted, add cosmetic oil (0.5 teaspoon per 100 g of base), 1-5 drops of dye (depending on the color you need), and flavoring. I also added titanium dioxide, previously diluted in water, for a matte green color.

We take the form we need (I took a disposable plastic box) and fill it. To avoid bubbles, be sure to spray with alcohol. We put it in the refrigerator and wait for it to harden. Here's what I got

The next step is to cut our piece into small pieces of the size and shape we need.

For convenience, I prepared toothpicks in advance and stuck them into the pieces.

Then we must prepare the necessary colored bases in which we will dip our pieces. Melt about 100 g of transparent base and add the necessary care oil and fragrance. We divide this basis into three parts. I painted one part with titanium dioxide, the second with gold mother-of-pearl and the third with emerald mother-of-pearl, pour cosmetic blue clay into a separate container.

Now you need to get ready and act quickly and carefully, because the base hardens very quickly. During the process, it can be heated, but not allowed to boil.

We take the first piece and dip it into the white base, then immediately, while it is still warm, roll it in clay and place it on parchment or a napkin, then do the same with the rest (I took half for this).

Here's what I got:

Now we take a container (mold), I needed a deep one. And we put our pebbles there

Now we need to fill all the stones. To do this, take 100 g of transparent and 50 g of white base (in my case I used titanium dioxide). Take 150 g of base, melt it in the microwave (or in a water bath) and add about 1 teaspoon of oil and flavoring, pour part of the base into another container (in my case, I painted this part white), add 2-3 drops to the rest green dye. Now fill in the green base first, then the white one on top. This is what happened

Let it cool in the refrigerator. After cooling, take it out of the mold and get this big stone

We will make our pebbles from this. I decided to make four stones. You can have more or less, it all depends on the size and your desire. I wanted a medium-sized stone, not very big and not very small. We cut our stone into pieces.

Next, we take a knife and begin to shape our pebble. It all depends only on your imagination. It can be made round or with sharp corners. I decided to do something in between. And this is what I got.

Happy soap making! Good luck!

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