Cold hair styling schemes. Hollywood chic from the past: cool wave hair styling

Soft, sleek retro waves went into obscurity for a while, but fashion is cyclical, and trends from past decades are back at the peak of popularity. Now on the red carpet you can see not only lush, voluminous curls that create the effect of carelessness, but also elegant, neat curls in a single fabric, often laid on one side. Is it difficult to do cold wave hair styling on your own? What features does this hairstyle have?

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Basic nuances of installation without thermal devices

The main reason why cold styling has remained relevant for decades is its harmless to hair. Of course, this point is relative, since no one has canceled the use of styling products, which means that some damage is still caused to the hair, but it is much less than with thermal exposure. Therefore, this hairstyle can be performed even on weakened, thin strands that instantly react to contact with hot surfaces and need subsequent restoration.

The disadvantage of this technique is low durability. Of course, you can influence it by choosing a mousse, gel and/or varnish with extra-strong hold, but this will negate any visual vibrancy. If it is a priority, you should prepare for the fact that after 5-6 hours the hairstyle will lose its original appearance.

Previously, for firmness and elasticity, hair was treated with flaxseed decoction, which worked as a weak styling agent. Today, foam is used for this purpose if you need to style it with natural, natural waves, and gel is used for a bright, stage look. Finally, the hairstyle must be treated with varnish, smoothing the hairs, and hairdressers can also resort to a special gloss in aerosol format. However, it is important to be careful with it and don't overdo it.

It is worth noting that cold styling is mainly aimed at soft, Thin hair, most often straight or slightly wavy. Rigid, porous, finely curly ones are much less amenable to this method of modeling, as a result of which they are first pulled out.

However, the durability with such a structure becomes even lower, as a result of which coarse hair is styled with cold waves only for a stage look, when an unwanted return to the original state will be prevented a large number of gel.

Best styled in waves shoulder length or higher curls: If the hair is longer, it will be more difficult and the hairstyle itself will take a lot of time. In addition, the traditional retro look was based on short haircuts. However, this does not prevent Hollywood beauties with long hair from showing waves in one piece, which is why they gave this hairstyle the alternative name “Hollywood wave.”

It should also be understood that cold undulation not executed on torn haircuts, since the ends along the entire length will become knocked out, adding to the image of sloppiness, and this will be difficult to disguise even with a large amount of gel.

How to do traditional cold styling at home?

The classic technique involves the use of long, toothless clips, a fine-toothed comb, and a knitting needle, which is very convenient for adding finishing touches. The styling products mentioned above and a moisturizing spray are also required.

  • Wash your hair or, if it is completely clean, wet it completely with water and comb the entire hair fiber. Divide it with a vertical parting into 2 parts: whether they are equal or not does not matter. However, initially the retro hairstyle involved a side parting, which is ideal for absolutely any face shape.
  • Treat the larger part of the hair with mousse or foam, but make sure that the products do not set instantly - the strand that will be worked with should remain very pliable, not stiff. If necessary, spray it with a moisturizing spray to soften it.
  • Carefully comb the strand, pulling it back, due to which it will rise slightly, and secure it at the root with flat clips. Place your index finger at a distance of 3 cm from the parting, almost parallel to it, with a slight slope. Place the comb-comb behind your finger (towards you), pull it towards your forehead, thereby moving the strand itself towards your face. When removing the comb, you should slightly lift the hair, forming a high crown. The higher it is, the better the durability of the hairstyle.
  • Having secured the crown between the index and middle fingers, insert duck clamps near it, move your fingers 2-3 cm from them. Place the comb closer to you in front of the extreme clamp, pull it away from your forehead, pulling your hair back. Again, form a crown with a smooth movement, mark it with clamps.


Repeat changing strand directions back and forth to the very edge, and tuck the tip towards the face and inward, fixing it with an additional drop of gel or mousse. Carefully dry the resulting hairstyle either naturally or with a hairdryer on cold air mode (which is much faster).

Only after the strand dries completely, remove the clamps from it and treat the surface with varnish. The jet should be directed from a distance of 35-40 cm, while at the same time smoothing stray hairs with the back or handle of the comb.

An important nuance is that the clamps securing the crowns on the sides should be located almost parallel to each other. Their length is selected approximately by half the width of the working strand.


It is also worth considering that a classic hairstyle has 5 (minimum) waves on the main side (where there is more hair), and 3 (minimum) on the opposite side.

“Hollywood wave” in combined technique: advice from professionals

Since the traditional method is very labor-intensive and requires good dexterity and skill, sometimes you have to resort to to some tricks. In particular, cold hair styling can combine “finger” technology and the use of a thermal device - tongs. Here they play the role of a kind of “outline” or “hint” that makes the work easier.


  • As for the traditional algorithm, moisten and dry the strands with a towel, break the entire fabric with a vertical side parting, and begin to design the side that is more voluminous.
  • Apply mousse to it, divide into 3-4 wide parts. Curl each of them on a curling iron as follows: place the rod parallel to the head, with the base almost to the very roots of the strand, wind the curl around it to the very tip from above. The tip of the curling iron should point away from the face.
  • Once the strand is curled, hold it with a clip until it cools. Using this technology, screw the entire side, let it cool and remove the clamps. Gently comb the fabric so that it creates a single wave - this is your “tip” that will allow you to quickly style your hair.
  • Also place your index finger 3-4 cm from the parting, use a comb to pull the strand towards your face: it should go here easily, since the curling iron has already given it the direction. Use your middle finger to form a crown, use a comb in front of it to pull the hair back, secure the crown on the sides with clips.

Further work is being done according to traditional technology, therefore does not require repetition. Essentially, this is the same cold hair styling, but with a preliminary outline of all the steps to create crowns.

In order for the finished hairstyle to last not 2-3 hours, but much longer, it needs secure with invisible. They do this from the inside so that the fastening elements are not visible: they are brought under the wave in the places where it exits onto the face and from it (not at the crown point!), with a stitching movement (stitches) they capture part of the hair from the active strand and those that are adjacent to head The length of the bobby pin should be less than wave width.

Experts advise paying attention to the fact that the wave should be harmonious: the active (larger) one starts towards the face, and the passive (smaller) one starts from the face. Then the S-line will not be broken.


To summarize, it should be said that it is recommended to master cold styling not on yourself, but on your mother, girlfriend, sister or training head. This technique is much more complicated than simple curling with a curling iron or straightener, and therefore requires preliminary practice at a traditional angle (from the position of a master). And if you doubt your skills, make the first tests without mousse, foam and gel - use only a moisturizing spray: it will prevent your hair from cementing too quickly, as a result of which you can straighten your hairstyle to perfection.

Cold hair styling using a combined method.

The priority in the work of a modern hairdresser is not the monotonous development of hairstyles, but their individual design. Each styling technique has its own advantages, but for certain types of hairstyles and hair quality it also has its own small disadvantages. Therefore, you cannot work using the same method all the time. In each individual case, you need to choose the most suitable technique to achieve the best result. In addition, it allows you to deviate from the well-known pattern in hairstyle design.

The combined method involves curling hair with curlers, styling hair in waves (with fingers), styling hair in waves using a hair dryer and curling iron. For example, using hair clips you can make waves on individual parts of the head.

In some cases, other types of hair styling can be used, each of which has its own advantages, especially when you consider different types hairstyles and hair quality.

Hair styling in waves using a hair dryer.

You need to start working with a hairdryer on a test strand.

It is not moistened very abundantly, less than with cold styling. The strand attached to the board is tucked away from you and combed well. Then the hair is given a certain direction with a comb, slightly moving it towards the main strand. Place the tip on the hair dryer, holding it in right hand, and the air stream is directed in the opposite direction of the bend.

Dry the hair until the first edge of the wave is formed. They step back from this wave by 3-4 cm and use a comb to push the hair slightly forward, while directing the air stream to the second edge of the wave. By turning the comb to the right, the air stream is directed to the left. If the comb is turned to the left, then the air stream is directed to the right. This is how waves are made one after another.

The width of the wave depends on the shape of the hairstyle. The distance from one edge of a wave to the other is called the width of the wave. By increasing and decreasing this distance we can achieve the desired waveform.

In addition to waves, you can also use a hair dryer to create other hairstyle details or completely style your hairstyle.

Generation of waves.

The initial or main wave of a strand.

The initial or first wave of the strand should not be worked out with hot curling irons and, most importantly, you should try to give it a natural waviness.

Main wave. The initial wave is followed by the equally important main wave, which should have a soft undulation and fit the client's face. As for subsequent waves, it is necessary to observe not only the accuracy of their production, but also their uniformity so that they smoothly coincide with one another.

In addition to the correct use of forceps, when forming new wave It is recommended to capture a small part of the previous one. a ready-made wave, along the bend of which a new one is generated.

Curling waves at the crown, horseshoe-shaped hairstyle. Having established the location of the main waves on both sides of the parting, the waves of these two parties are developed. Then, using slightly heated tongs, lightly mark the contours of the outcome of the main wave around the crown, and only after this can one begin to produce the wave itself. This minor preparatory work is especially recommended for hairdressers who are not engaged in curling on a daily basis, while experienced experts in this process produce waves already by skill.

When curling a horseshoe-shaped hairstyle or hair on the crown, you need to keep in mind that when creating an arc, the hairdresser should stand behind and grab only very narrow strands at the end of the main wave with the tip of the curling iron. With subsequent grips, the arc expands more and more.

To master perfectly the pick-up, that is, the technique of expanding the wave with the development of a smooth coincidence of one wave with the arc, as well as the technique of the so-called sub-curling of hair lying under already curled top hair. a lot of training is needed. So, if at short haircut If you get hair with a length of 10 to 15 cm, then after the second or third wave the strand ends, and in this case it is impossible to create waves at the very back of the head. In order to develop a second wave in this position, two methods are used, namely: smoothly adjacent pickup of the previous wave with a new one and the so-called sub-curling.

Picking up in this case performs two tasks: the first method, even with short hair ah makes it possible to create uniform waves up to the back of the head and deepen them. Having developed the initial batch of the initial (main) wave, pick up the main hair or hair that has not yet been curled with a comb. After this, the tongs grab the hair near the break of the previous wave so that the upper edge of the groove-shaped knee is directed slightly upward.

Then, with a half-turn of the tongs, continuously closing and opening them with the wrist, they once again produce a large arc of the wave. Only after this do you need to close the tongs completely and continue producing waves using the usual method. Depending on the length of the hair, this pick-up is repeated several times.

Very often, the mistake of hairdressers is that they insert the curling iron into the hair from below, and close it to capacity immediately at the break, lifting it up at the same time (due to incorrect position curling iron) bottom batches of hair up. As a result, the newly created wave break after combing will lie lower. The result will be sloppy waves.

Hair styling with curlers.

To style hair with curlers, the hair must be cut correctly so that there are no ends of different lengths.

Use curlers to style soft to medium-hard hair. It is not recommended to style coarse hair using curlers as the curling results in excessively curly hair. As a last resort, curlers with a diameter of at least 20 mm can be used to curl coarse hair. Using large curlers, a partial curl is made on the back of the head or on the sides of the head to create a very light wave or 1-2 waves in the front. For this, depending on the length of the hair, curlers with a diameter of 10-20mm are used.

Hair should be curled in curlers in the direction in which the wave should lie. For example, if the wave is parallel to the parting, the curlers are also placed parallel to it; if the wave is inclined in relation to the parting, the curlers are also placed obliquely.

When combing hair with waves back, the curlers are placed parallel to the forehead (Fig. 4, 5).

The hair is wrapped in curlers in the direction of combing. Otherwise they won't fit well.

Curling of hair is done as follows: the master stands facing the direction of curling the hair and with the rare side of the comb, which he holds in his right hand, separates a strand of hair with a width slightly less than the width of the curler, and a thickness of about 1 cm. He transfers the hair to his left hand, and places it with his right them between the tube and the wings of the curler, pulls the curler to the end of the hair strand and begins to wind it. At the same time, he must ensure that the ends of the hair lie between the tube and the wings and do not stick out to the sides when winding, otherwise they will stick out even after combing. If the hair in the strand is longer on one side and shorter on the other, then the curlers are placed at an angle, pinching all ends of the hair at the same time, since when winding the curlers will align and take a horizontal position. After curling, the hair is dried, the curlers are removed and the curls are combed with a comb or massage brush. Combing begins with the lower curls and ends with the upper ones. After combing with a light push, the edges of the palm (from the little finger side) give the necessary direction to the hair waves.

When combing hair back on the area of ​​the head from the forehead to the back of the head, the curlers lie parallel to the forehead, on the sides of the head.

Vertical to the forehead, on the areas of the head between the sides and crown.

Curlers are twisted downwards at an angle at the back of the head. Then the hair is combed with a comb and brush, after which the edge of the palm is used to direct the waves.

By styling your hair with curlers, you get a more natural hairstyle than with all other types of curling, especially with soft hair.

When curling a hairstyle with a parting on the side or in the middle, the curlers are placed in the opposite direction of the wave.

Hair styling with a hairdryer.

Hair styling with a hairdryer has an undeniable advantage, since it does not take much time from the client and the stylist, and the waves are more voluminous and closer to natural. Using a hairdryer, the following work is performed: all types of curling, hairstyles, straightening of curled hair on the head and beard, installation of hair on the crown of the head during haircuts.

The tip directs the air stream in a narrow, flat stream, and thereby does not fluff the hair, but gives it the desired direction, while simultaneously drying it and creating a wave shape. The temperature of the air stream is regulated by moving the hair dryer closer or further away.

Hair styling with a hairdryer includes the following steps:

1. Washing your hair and treating it with a special hair styling compound.

2. After this, the hair is combed and given the direction that you will follow in styling.

3. If the hair is very wet, light drying is advisable.

4. After all the preparatory stages have been completed, you should proceed directly to styling your hair with a hairdryer.

When styling with a flat brush, the strand is first picked up from the roots of the hair, after drying which we proceed to processing the wet ends of the hair, smoothly changing the direction of the air supply. You can give direction to the ends of the hair using a round brush, which must constantly support the strand of hair.

When styling, pay great attention to the required direction and complete drying of the base of the strand, this affects the strength and volume of the hairstyle.

At the end of the process (styling), the hair must be combed into the desired shape and fixed with hairspray.

Hair styling using electric curling irons, or hot hair styling.

This styling is performed only on dry and clean hair. If hairspray or any other fixative was previously applied to the hair, this will damage the hair structure. Hair may lose its shine and become dry and brittle.

Separate the strand with a comb. Grab it at the roots of your hair with tongs. Place the strand between the roller of the curling iron and the clamp, warm it up, move the curling iron along the entire length of the strand and wind the hair onto the roller of the curling iron.

Exposure time - 20-30 seconds. Then carefully pull the tongs out of the curl. To avoid scalp burns, do not bring the electric tongs close to the skin. The direction of curling using electric curling irons is determined by the desired result of the future hairstyle. Having received the curls, you can begin final styling. In this case, you can apply hair blunting, backcombing, use hairpins, bobby pins, and bobby pins. For greater stability, the hairstyle must be fixed.

When using electric curling irons, the hair becomes very dry, so it is not recommended to use them every day.

Safety precautions.

Electrical equipment, electrical equipment and power tools must be kept in good condition, be safe to operate and be protected in case of accidental contact with live elements. If any malfunctions are detected, work with the equipment must be stopped until these malfunctions are eliminated.

The hairdresser is prohibited from:

1. Disassemble electrical devices and other electrical equipment and make any repairs yourself.

2. Use alcohol or products containing alcohol to clean electrical devices with heating elements.

5. When leaving his workplace, the hairdresser must turn off local individual lighting and heating devices.

6. All electric heating devices must have fireproof stands.

Technology of hair styling with curlers.

1. Comb your hair.

2. Wash your hair.

3. When doing everyday hairstyle, at the client’s request, apply hair styling product, then comb the hair evenly, distributing the product.

4. Using a comb, give your hair the direction of the line of your future hairstyle.

5. Starting from the fronto-parietal zone, curl the hair with curlers along the line of the future hairstyle.

6. To avoid creases, they are fixed with an elastic band at the parting site or visible parts of the hairstyle; the curlers are secured with a clip.

7. Place pieces of cotton wool under the metal parts of the curlers that come into contact with the skin of the forehead, neck, and ears; if your hair is short, then put a hair net on top.

8. Dry your hair under a dryer.

9. After the curlers and hair strands have cooled completely, carefully remove the curlers and thoroughly comb your hair with a wide-tooth comb and brush.

10. Style the hair according to the client’s wishes.

Curlers - The most common hair styling tool, both in hairdressing salons and at home. Professional hairdressers use up to six sets of curlers with a diameter of 1 to 5 cm and a length of 8-10 cm. Curlers are made of metal, rubber and plastic; they have a number of minor differences in design - hair is attached to them with elastic bands, clips, pressure strips, and special hairpins. Inside the curlers there are sometimes tweezers - brushes made of bristles: it protrudes from the holes on the sides of the curlers, this makes their surface rough and makes it easier to curl the hair.

Bobbins - used for chemical hair perming. Made from wood and plastic. Bobbins are easy to make with your own hands, for example, a piece of rubber hose on a wire frame. The diameter of the middle part of the bobbin is 1.5-2 times smaller than that of the ends. The longer the hair, the more convenient the bobbins with an oblong working part. Bobbins for vertical perm more complicated than usual, they are cone-shaped and equipped with a spring to secure the twisted strand of hair. So far, such bobbins have not become widespread.

Hair styling with curlers.

There are 4 types:

1. Metal curlers with a stick.

2. Metal curlers without a stick.

3. Curlers with a brush.

4. Curlers for vertical styling.

Styling hair with curlers can be like an independent species, and an additional type of hair styling. Curlers are used to create everyday and evening hairstyles. The diameter of the curlers is from 1 to 5 cm or more, selected depending on the structure of the hair, the purpose of the hairstyle, and if curlers of different diameters are used, then depending on the location.

Rules for curling with curlers.

The length of an individual strand should be the length of the working surface of the curler. The width of the strand should correspond to the width of the curler. When winding, the strand should be positioned strictly perpendicular to the surface of the head.

After curling, the curlers, in a fixed state, should clamp the place from which the strand was separated. Before winding, the strand should be well curled, and the hair in it should be parallel to each other.

Hairdryer Designed for styling and drying hair using hot air. The hair dryer is a structure consisting of an electric fan and heating elements enclosed in a plastic casing. It quickly dries your hair and helps you style it into a hairstyle of any complexity using the attachments included with it.

Distinguish hair dryers And hair dryers-pistols are L-shaped. It is better to use at work hair dryer gun. When using a hairdryer, you should not dry your hair with a very hot stream of air, as it will begin to split.

Professional the hair dryer must have a power of at least 1500W, have a long cord, several attachments, and there must be a narrow attachment - nozzle, which is used for drying individual strands and sections of strands, for drying hair roots when performing styling, which visually increases the volume of the hairstyle (the hair is rotated from the root in a position perpendicular to the skin, and dried 1-1.5 cm from the root).

For the fastest and most reliable hair treatment, double-sided hair dryer treatment is possible. This makes your hair dry faster.

During styling, pay great attention to the required direction and complete drying of the base of the strand, this affects the strength and volume of the hairstyle.

To speed up hair drying, it is advisable to use several round brushes. The hair, wound on the first brush and treated with a hairdryer, cools down, the treatment of another strand of hair immediately begins, with this method, the elasticity of the hair is restored faster and more effectively.

At the end, use a comb to style your hair. If necessary, emphasize individual strands or to create a smooth hairstyle, apply wax to the strands with your fingers and shape the hairstyle.

The hairstyle can be fixed with hairspray.

Hair dryer technology.

1.Wash your hair and treat it with a special hair styling compound.

2.after this, the hair is combed and given the direction that you will follow in styling.

3.if the hair is very wet. drying is preferable.

4.After all the preparatory stages have been completed, you should proceed directly to styling your hair with a hairdryer.

5. At the end of the styling process, it is necessary to comb the hair into the desired shape and fix the hairstyle with a hairdryer.

Now let's look at some secrets of styling hair with a hair dryer.

When styling with a flat brush, the strand is first picked up from the roots of the hair, after drying them, we proceed to processing the wet ends of the hair, smoothly changing the direction of the air supply, etc. The direction of the ends of the hair can be given using a round brush, which must constantly support the strand of hair.

Hair styling with electric curling irons , or hot hair styling.

This styling is performed only on dry and clean hair. Using electric curling irons with wet hair is dangerous. If hairspray or any other fixative was previously applied to the hair, this will damage the hair structure. Hair may lose its shine and become dry and brittle.

Separate the strand with a comb. Grab it at the roots of your hair with tongs. Place the strand between the roller of the curling iron and the clamp, heat it, move the curling iron along the entire length of the strand and wind the hair onto the roller of the curling iron. Exposure time 20-30 seconds. Then carefully pull the tongs out of the curls. To avoid scalp burns, do not bring the electric tongs close to the skin. The direction of curling using electric curling irons is determined by the desired result of the future hairstyle. Having received the curls, you can begin final styling. In this case, you can use hair blunting, backcombing, hairpins, bobby pins, and bobby pins. For greater stability, the hairstyle must be fixed.

Safety precautions when working with power tools.

1. Before starting to work with electrical equipment, we check the serviceability of: socket, cord, plug, equipment housing.

2. Don't be distracted while working.

3. Store in a case.

4. Do not place it near a flammable object.

5. If this is a dryer, then before starting work, we check the presence of a rubber mat under the client’s feet, the grounding of the dryer, and the serviceability of all components.

6. When drying hair, we first put nets on the client’s head. to avoid hair being pulled into the dryer.

Types of curls secured with clips:

    Curls adjacent to the roots of the hair (directed to the right or direction to the left) are “flat curls”;

    Vertical curls with a raised root part - “air curls”.

Required prior knowledge:

- The technique of creating curls using clips is not suitable for curling very curly and long hair.

It is better to place curls in checkerboard pattern, changing the direction of winding the strands.

The direction of the first row of curls depends on natural hair growth directions.

From curl diameter The size and elasticity of the curl and the width of the separated strand of hair depend.

The technique of forming an adjacent curl is suitable for hairstyles or individual elements of hairstyles without volume. The technique of forming “air curls” allows you to create voluminous hairstyles. These techniques can be combined with each other seeking desired effect in styling.

Preparatory work:

    Wash your hair;

    Apply styling product to hair;

    Comb your hair thoroughly.

Technology for making an adjacent curl directed to the right:

    Starting from the left temple, separate a strand of hair 2x3 cm (Figure 1);

    Comb a strand of hair, slightly pulling it to the right and pressing it to the head;

    Form a curl;

    With your left hand, take the end of a strand of hair, and place the index finger of your right hand obliquely under the root part (Figure 2);

    Wrap a strand of hair like a ribbon around the index finger of your right hand. Make sure that the hair is not pulled too tightly and the strand does not twist;

    Bring the end of your finger to the base of a strand of hair;

    Using the index finger and thumb of your left hand, remove the formed curl from your right index finger and secure it at the base with a clip. Try not to change the round shape of the curl.

Thus, perform a whole series of curls with the direction to the right. Move the strands of the next row to the floor of the curl so that they are staggered and wind them in the direction to the left.

Technology for creating vertical curls with a raised root part.

    In the bangs area, separate a strand of hair measuring 2x4 cm;

    Comb a strand of hair from the root part upward, perpendicular to the surface of the head;

    Using your thumb and forefinger, form a ring at the end of the strand corresponding to the diameter of the future curl (Figure 3);

    Pulling the strand, twist it to the roots of the hair;

    Comb your hair again and form the first row of curls;

    Place the next row of curls in a checkerboard pattern.

Dry your hair and style it into a hairstyle.

Methods and rules for styling hair using a hair dryer.

The most common methods of blow drying hair are:

Brasheng.

Bombing– method of styling hair using a hairdryer and a transelval brush (tunnel brush). Suitable for short hair. Allows you to create volume at the root part of the hair on a segment of 2 - 5 cm, which is the basis for the hairstyle.

Brasheng- method of styling hair using a hair dryer and brush. Allows you to create volume both at the roots of the hair and along the entire length of the strand; using this method you can create curls and “smooth” your hair.

The combination of brushing and bombing methods allows you to create many hair styling options.

Preparatory work:

    Wash your hair, thoroughly rinsing the root part of the hair, without weighing it down with care products;

    Cover the client's shoulders with wedge;

    Apply styling product to hair.

Mistakes to avoid when blow drying your hair:

    Do not style hair that is too wet; before starting styling, the hair should be slightly dried;

    Do not overuse the hair styling product, as the hair loses its natural shine and sticks to the teeth of the comb;

    You cannot process strands that are too thick, as the hair in the outer layers becomes overdried and the hair in the inner layers becomes underdried;

    Care must be taken during styling to avoid burning your scalp. To do this, the hair dryer's air stream must be directed tangentially to the head;

    When styling, the hair tension should not be weak, otherwise it will not acquire sufficient elasticity;

    You cannot dry your hair with the cold air of a hairdryer, as it is impossible to achieve the desired result;

    You cannot over-dry a strand of hair, as the hair loses its shine; if the strand is not completely dried, the styling will quickly fall off.

The final stage of blow drying your hair:

    If desired, some strands can be slightly blunted at the root part and the blunting can be fixed with hairspray;

    Using a comb or fork, give the ends of the hair the desired direction;

    Select some strands using styling products;

    Fix the finished style with hairspray.

Making waves using a hair dryer:

    Wet hair with styling compound;

    Insert the comb into the hair, stepping back 3–4 cm from the root of the strand, holding the comb so that its teeth are perpendicular to the strand;

    Move the comb to the right by 1 - 1.5 cm. This movement will give the direction of the wave, a crown will be formed;

    After this, turn the comb teeth towards yourself so that the wave line is on the comb teeth, move it towards you by 0.5 - 1 cm;

    Direct a stream of hot air to the left, dry the bend of the wave and the first crown;

    To make the wave look natural, repeat the comb grips several times;

    Then perform a wave in the opposite direction, acting in the same way.

Hair styling is the process of curling hair for a short period of time.

Hair styling consists of various operations that can be used to create hairstyles of any shape and pattern.

There are several ways to style your hair:

  • cold styling (styling with a comb and fingers, styling with curlers);
  • air styling (styling with a brush and hair dryer);
  • hot styling (styling with tongs);
  • combined styling (laying in different ways).

The length of time the style is maintained will depend on many factors, such as: hair structure, its elasticity and elasticity; selected tools and their diameter; styling composition; weather.

Let's first look at the basic elements of a hairstyle. Parting- the most common hairstyle element; is a straight line dividing the scalp into two equal or unequal parts. Partings can be straight, side and curly:

  • A straight parting divides the scalp into two equal parts;
  • lateral - into two unequal parts and most often runs from the frontal recesses to the highest point of the head;
  • a curly parting consists of several straight lines forming various patterns.

Half parting- shortened parting line. It can also be straight, side or curly.

Wave- this is a part of the hairstyle that has a smooth bend and is limited on both sides by crowns; crown - the highest wave line where the hair reverses its direction. The crown can be high and low, narrow and wide. The narrower and higher the crown, the longer the hairstyle lasts.

In relation to the face, the waves can be protruding or reverse. The protruding waves are directed towards the face and extend beyond the hairline. Reverse waves are deployed from the face.

In relation to the parting, the waves are straight, oblique and transverse. Straight waves are located at an angle of 45° to the parting; oblique waves - parallel to the parting; transverse - perpendicular to the imaginary parting.

The sizes of the waves are wide and narrow, shallow and deep. The narrower and deeper the wave, the longer the hairstyle will last. The optimal wave width is 2 cm.

Curl- a strand of hair curled into a tube. According to their location on the head, curls are distinguished into vertical, horizontal, and descending. According to the principle of curling, curls can be curled up, down, figure eight, half eight.

Cold hair styling. Styling with a comb and fingers has been used for a very long time. This style does not harm the hair. This installation method allows you to widely vary the width and depth of the waves. Use the following order of operations:

  • moisten hair with styling fixative and comb thoroughly from the forehead back. If there is a parting, then comb from the parting in the direction of the distribution of the hair in the styling;
  • insert the comb at the hairline above the forehead or at the parting and move the comb to the side (Fig. 3.2, a). This will result in the first half wave. Hold the comb in your right hand in the third way (see subsection 2.1);

Rice. 3.2. Performing cold hair styling:
a - half wave; b - one wave; c - two waves

  • With your left hand (index finger or edge of the palm and little finger) press half-wave hair along the comb to the scalp. Move the comb forward in your hair a little and move it towards reverse side(Fig. 3.2, b). Remove your left hand from the pressed half-wave strand and press the second half-wave. You will get one wave;
  • then again, with your left hand, press the half-wave hair along the comb to the scalp, move the comb to the side. The result will be the third half-wave.
  • repeat the movements of the comb back and forth and pressing the hair with your hand until the desired number of waves is obtained;
  • Having laid one section of the head in waves, move to another, continuing to style the hair in the same way (Fig. 3.2, c).

When styling in some places, so that the half-waves and waves do not move, they need to be fixed with clips and hairpins, but care must be taken to ensure that there are no hair creases left.

Rice. 3.3. Types of fixation of flat rings

For very short hair on the back of the head, you can style it in the form of flat rings:

  • Apply styling fixative to hair;
  • Use your thumb and forefinger to twist the strand clockwise or counterclockwise and secure with one or two thin pins, clips, clips, or invisible pins (Fig. 3.3);
  • choose the width of the rings 1.5x1.5 or 2x2 cm. Twist clockwise in one row, counterclockwise in the other, etc.

Hair styling with curlers currently not very relevant in salons and hairdressing salons. However, there will always be clients who prefer this type of styling. In addition, modern types of curlers allow you to get beautiful natural curls, especially on long hair. By using various styling products (hair styling), you can diversify the client’s appearance. To do this, it is important to choose the correct diameter of the curlers, wind them correctly and dry them correctly, as well as comb your hair. For example, by combing your curls with brushes, you can pull out the strands, or you can simply separate the curls with your fingers and spray them with varnish, thereby obtaining a modern style of styling. When using thin curlers, the curls will always be small and bouncy. Medium curlers on short hair will simply add fluffiness and volume to the hair middle length- large waves, and on long ones - soft waves. Large rollers can be used to straighten curly hair. Styling with curlers is always done on damp (for example, moistened with styling compound) hair.

Rules for curling hair with curlers:

  • before curling, the hair is divided into zones depending on the chosen layout of the curlers;
  • the thickness of the strand should not exceed the diameter of the curler;
  • the width of the strand should be slightly less than the length of the curler;
  • to lift the root of the strand, the strand is pulled at approximately an angle of 90° to the surface of the head;
  • rotate the curlers so that the hair is evenly distributed along the plane of the curlers;
  • when curling, maintain uniform hair tension;
  • Depending on the type of curlers, they are secured with an elastic band or hairpin.

Rice. 3.4. Various schemes for curling hair with curlers

In Fig. 3.4 shows diagrams for curling hair with curlers. After all the hair is curled, the client is put on a hair net and seated under the dryer. Before unwinding the curlers, they are allowed to cool for better fixation of the curls. The curlers begin to unwind from the lower occipital area so that the hair does not get tangled. Then start combing your hair.

At the client's request, after wrapping, the hair can be combed or blunted. To give your hair a smoother shape, you can use styling gel or wax. To preserve volume for a longer period of time, the hairstyle is fixed with varnish.

Air styling. Hair styling with a brush and hair dryer is carried out depending on the length of the hair.

Blow-drying to lift the roots using a flat skeletal brush is called bombing. It is used in both men's and women's rooms when performing everyday evening and model hairstyles.

The order of operations is as follows:

  • The strand is grabbed with a brush at the root, against hair growth, for maximum lift. A stream of air is directed onto the strand tangentially to the head and the resulting hair crease is fixed. Allow this section of the strand to cool on the brush until completely dry;
  • The entire length of the strand is pulled with a brush, directing the hair dryer jet in the direction of the lines of the intended hairstyle. After this, remove the brush from the dried strand of hair;
  • In the same way, they continue to perform styling on other parts of the head, gradually moving from the occipital zone to the frontal one.

Using a round brush, shape the ends of the hair or straighten it curly hair. This installation method is called brushing, it only applies to the women's room.

A hairdryer is convenient for styling hair of any length. Hairstyles with short hair will be more voluminous and will last longer if the hair is moistened at the roots with gel, liquid hairspray or styling foam.

Blow-drying requires special care. You need to dry your hair very carefully, trying to ensure that already dried hair does not come into contact with wet hair; clearly work out all the details, while simultaneously creating a three-dimensional shape of the hairstyle and making sure that the air stream does not burn the skin. To do this, it is recommended to direct the air stream along a tangent line to the head, from the roots to the ends of the strand. After styling, comb the hair with a wide-toothed comb.

Using a comb, a flat brush and a hairdryer, you can create waves. To do this, hold the comb perpendicular to the separated strand, insert the teeth of the brush into the hair at a distance of two to three fingers' width and move it slightly to the right. This is how the first wave is formed. Then the comb is turned with its teeth up, tilted towards itself and dried with a stream of air, directing it to the left. The second wave is obtained in the same way, changing the direction of the brush and hair dryer. The comb is moved to the left 1 cm and turned towards itself. The hair is dried with a hair dryer directed to the right.

You can start styling from the parietal area of ​​the head or from the parting. The brush is held parallel to the head, grabbing a strand of hair, the hair is lifted at the roots and turned slightly toward itself, after which the brush is moved away from the parting, gradually drying the hair along the entire brush. This technique is repeated several times to give the hair the desired shape.

You can wind it up long strands onto a round brush and dry each strand, first from the outside and then from the inside. To do this, comb the strand with your left hand, slightly twisting the brush, as a result of which the hair is well fixed to the brush, taking the shape of a curl. In this case, the hair will curl beautifully downward, without giving the impression of being curled in curlers (Fig. 3.5).

Rice. 3.5. Styling hair with a round brush

Hot styling. Hair styling with electric curling irons is performed only on dry and clean hair, since using electric curling irons with wet hair is dangerous. And if hairspray or other fixative was applied to the hair the day before, this will greatly damage the hair structure - it will lose its shine, become dry and brittle.

The order of operations is as follows:

  • Separate the strand with a comb, grab it at the roots of the hair with tongs, place it between the roller of the tongs and the clamp;
  • warm up by moving the tongs along the entire length of the strand, and wind the hair onto the roller of the tongs. To avoid burning your scalp, place a comb under the strand of hair that is currently being twisted (Fig. 3.6);

Rice. 3.6. Hair styling with electric curling irons

  • hold for 20 - 30 s and carefully remove the tongs from the curl. The direction of curling with electric curling irons should be determined by the desired result of the future hairstyle;
  • perform this operation on all areas of the head where it is desirable to get curls;
  • Having received tube curls, you can begin final styling. If necessary, use blunting, backcombing, hairpins, pins, etc.;
  • fix the hairstyle.

It should be noted that daily use of electric curling irons is not recommended, as the hair becomes very dry.

Combing and blunting hair. These operations are necessary to design some models of modern hairstyles. When performing both operations, use a comb with teeth of different heights.

Combing is the dense beating of hair over the entire width and thickness of the strand being processed. When combing, the strand is processed both from the inside and from the outside. When starting to comb, first of all, use a ponytail comb to separate a strand on the desired area of ​​the scalp. Then grab the middle part of the strand between the middle (or thumb) and index fingers of the left hand and pull it perpendicular to the surface of the head. Next, bring the comb into the strand of hair at a distance of 5 - 6 cm from its base. Then, by moving the comb towards the base of the strands, combing begins. The movement of the comb down to the base of the strand is stopped at the first feeling of its braking, and each subsequent time the comb will stop further and further from the base of the strand. These movements are usually repeated several times, and each time the comb is inserted 1 - 2 cm higher. At the same time, the left hand holding the strand of hair is also moved upward, towards the ends of the strand. Move the fingers of your left hand up the strand and insert the comb into your hair in a coordinated manner. The movement of the hand with the comb is performed in a circle. Using these techniques, a strand of hair is processed on both sides.

Touping is beating the hair only half the thickness of the strand. Tuping can be thought of as part of backcombing. When performing blunting, a strand of hair is usually pulled not perpendicular to the combing surface, but in the direction in which it will lie in the hairstyle. In this case, the comb is not inserted to its full thickness, but so that its teeth in no case protrude from the outside of the strand. Using this technique, a strand of hair is processed only on the side that will be internal in the hairstyle.

Ways to style hair, elements of hairstyles. Preparatory work.

Laying - This is a change in the structure of the hair for a short time.

According to the method of execution, all installations can be divided into four main groups:

cold hair styling using hands, a comb and composition;

styling using curlers and clips;

styling with a hair dryer;

styling using tongs.

The length of time the style is maintained will depend on many factors, such as: hair structure, its elasticity and elasticity; selected tools and their diameter; styling composition; weather.

By the nature of the construction All existing hairstyles can be divided into four main types: reverse, concentrated, front, acentral.

Reverse hairstyles characterized by combed-back hair, they are suitable for both men and women. The length of hair in such hairstyles can be different, so they are considered the most common (Figure 1).

IN concentratedhairstyles all hair is combed upward to the highest point of the head, including the hair of the lower occipital zone, which should be long enough (Figure 2).

Front hairstyles often used in competitive hairstyles, all hair is combed towards the face (Figure 3).

In acentral or flowing hairstyles, all hair is combed according to its natural growth, are as common as reverse hairstyles (Figure 4).

Fig.1 Fig.2 Fig.3 Fig.4

By purpose All hairstyles can be divided into two groups: household And spectacular. Household ones, in turn, are divided into everyday And evening. They differ from spectacular hairstyles in their simpler execution. Spectacular hairstyles are competitive And theatrical hairstyles Competition hairstyles can also be divided into model And podium. Theatrical hairstyles can be intended for performances in the theater, on stage, in the circus, and can also be part of a fancy dress costume.

Hairstyle elements.

The most common hairstyle element is parting - a straight line dividing the scalp into two equal or unequal parts.

The parting runs from the edge of the hairline to the highest point of the head. Partings can be straight, side and curly.

A straight parting divides the scalp into two equal parts; lateral - into two unequal parts and most often runs from the frontal recesses to the highest point of the head; A curly parting consists of several straight lines that form a different pattern. A shortened parting line is calledhalf parting . It can also be straight, side or curly.

Wave This is a part of the hairstyle that has a smooth bend and is limited on both sides by crowns.

Cron – the highest line of the wave where the hair changes its direction to the opposite. The crown can be high and low, narrow and wide, the narrower and higher the crown, the longer the hairstyle lasts.

P about attitude towards a person waves can be protruding and backward. Protruding waves directed towards the face and extend beyond the marginal hairline. Back waves turned away from the face.

Protruding waves are:

frontal – closes the frontal recess;

temporal – closes the temporal cavity

facial – covers the ear and cheek

In relation to the parting waves are straight, oblique and transverse. Oblique waves located at an angle of 45° to the parting, straight- parallel to the collection, transverse– perpendicular to the imaginary parting.

According to its size waves can be wide and narrow, shallow and deep. The narrower and deeper the wave, the longer the hairstyle will last.

Curl - a strand of hair curled into a tube. According to their location on the head, curls are distinguished: vertical, horizontal, oblique.

According to the principle of curling, curls can be curled up, down, in a figure eight, or in a spiral.

Bookles And ribbons - these are strands of hair whipped (using the method of backcombing and blunting), combed smoothly and styled into a hairstyle.

Roller - this is a combed part of the hair, laid in a convex volumetric shape. The roller can be done without backcombing, using straightened hair.

Braids , tourniquets , various types weaving , are also elements of hairstyles.

Toupee - this is whipped hair above the forehead in the form of a forelock or cowlick.

Pace – hair combed over the cheeks, in the form of small thin strands (curled or not curled).

Fiston – hair in the form of a thick strand of hair, styled and combed over the face (like a “boot”).

Cook – the upper part of the hairstyle is above the forehead in the form of a comb or tuft.

Preparatory work for hair styling:

Perform hair diagnostics;

Wash your hair;

Cover the client with a styling drape;

Apply styling product.

Final work when styling hair:

Fix the styling result with hairspray;

Remove the weir.

Dependence of the shape of the strand on the location of the curler relative to its base

    Winding strands at right angles to the head is used to obtain volume at the roots of the hair. The curl turns out lush and elastic (Figure 1).

    Winding the strands on curlers at an obtuse angle relative to the head is used to obtain even more volume at the roots of the hair. The curl turns out lush, very voluminous, but not elastic (Figure 2).

    Winding a strand of hair on curlers at an acute angle to the head does not create volume at the root part of the hair; the curl turns out to be of low volume (Figure 3).

The combination of twisting strands on curlers at different angles allows you to create the desired styling shapes.

Hair styling using curlers. Arranging curls into a hairstyle.

Tools and accessories:

Comb - tail (for separating strands);

Wide-toothed comb (for combing hair);

Comb – fork (for styling hair);

Spray;

Hair clips;

Materials:

Hair styling lotion or hair styling foam;

Hairspray;

Modeling products for styling finished curls.

Spray - hair shine

Rules and techniques for curling hair with curlers

    Decide on the choice of cheating scheme.

    Divide the hair prepared for styling into zones according to the diagram.

    Separate the strands with zigzag partings or twist them in a checkerboard pattern so that the working partings are not visible in the finished hairstyle. The length of the base of the strand should be equal to the length of the curler, the width of the base of the strand should be equal to the diameter of the curler. Curl curlers, taking into account the dependence of the volume of the hairstyle on the angle of inclination of the strand relative to its base when curled with curlers.

    When winding, you must remember that the curlers should be positioned strictly parallel to the base of the strand; you need to wind the strand with tension, helping to scroll through individual hairs with a comb-tail.

    Wind the strands near the face using curlers with a slight draw towards the face so as not to open the edge hairline.

    When using a curler with a hairpin, it must be secured in the direction opposite to the direction of winding and inserted at an angle into the previous curler.

When curling long and thick hair, the strands should be thinner, this will reduce the drying time of the hair and give elasticity to the curls.

The curling result largely depends on the size of the curler and the length of the hair.

Drying hair

Hair curled in curlers is most often dried using a dryer, but you can use a hand-held hair dryer or air dry your hair.

Hair drying time depends on the thickness of the hair and its porosity. Porous hair takes longer to dry than smooth hair, and thick hair takes longer than thin hair.

Hair must be completely dry. To find out, you need to check the degree of drying on two or three strands in different areas of the head. It is impossible to determine this on warm strands; they must first be cooled.

You need to start unwinding the curlers from the lower zones, moving to the upper ones, at the same time you can divide the curls into smaller ones using modeling tools. This will be one of the options for styling curls in your hair.

Another option for styling curls in a hairstyle would be to comb the curls first with a natural bristle brush in the direction opposite to curling, then in the direction of their growth. The modeling agent is applied to the ends of the curls using squeezing movements of the hands. The result is a voluminous, lush hairstyle with shaped ends of the hair.

When decorating curls in a hairstyle, decorative hairpins, hairpins, bobby pins, and other types of decor are often used. The finished hairstyle is fixed with hairspray.



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