Knitting patterns on spongebob knitted items. Spongebob squarepants, crochet

Conventions.
VP - air loop
sc - single crochet
increase – 2 sc in one loop
decrease - knit two sc together
dc - double crochet
increase dc - two dc in one loop
Decrease dc – knit 2 dc together
ss – connecting post
* repeat

Thread – thin cotton, hook No. 1.5, 1

DESCRIPTION

Torso

Dial 16 ch
1st row: starting from the second loop from the hook we knit 14 sc, in the last loop - 3 sc, turn the knitting clockwise, 12 sc, 2 increases (33)
2nd row: increase, 13 sbn, 3 increases, 13 sbn, increase, 2 sbn (38)
3rd row: 1 sbn, increase, 13 sbn, increase, 3 sbn, increase, 14 sbn, increase, 3 sbn (42)
4th row: 1 sbn, increase, 15 sbn, increase, 4 sbn, increase, 15 sbn, increase, 3 sbn (46)
Rows 5-7: no changes (46)
Rows 8-10: change to white thread, no change (46)
Row 11: change to a yellow thread, no changes (46), knit the last ss and do 2 ch rises (don’t forget to knit them at the beginning of each row! Now we don’t knit in a circle!!!)
Rows 12-15: 46 dc
Row 16: 2 dc, * 6 dc, increase dc, * repeat 6 times, 2 dc (52)
Row 17: no change (52)
Row 18: 1 dc, * 4 dc, increase dc, * repeat 10 times, 1 dc (62)
Rows 19-21: no changes (62)
Row 22: 1 dc, * 5 dc, increase dc, * repeat 10 times, 1 dc (72)
Row 23: no change (72)
Row 24: 1 dc, * 13 dc, increase dc, * repeat 5 times, 1 dc (77)
Row 25: no changes (77 sc)
Row 26: * 5 dc, decrease dc, * repeat 11 times (66)
Row 27: 1 dc, * 2 dc, decrease dc, * repeat 16 times, 1 dc (50)
Row 28: attention! now you have a conditional rectangle where there are two more long sides and two shorter ones. We knit decreases on the short sides, and decreases with dc on the long sides.
* decrease dc, dc, * repeat 5 times, 5 decrease dc, * decrease dc, dc, * repeat 5 times, 5 decrease dc (30 loops)
Fold in the long sides. Sew carefully.
p.s. If you want the top of SpongeBob to be even wider, then make more increases (up to 92 loops, for example, increasing the height by 2-3 rows). In this case, there will also be a little more rows of decreases.

Legs (2 parts)

ch 6
1st row: starting from the second loop from the hook, knit 4 sc in each loop, 3 sc in the outer loop, knitting goes to the other side of the chain, 3 sc, increase in the last (12)
2nd row: increase in the first loop, 3 sc, 3 increases, 3 sc, 2 increases (18)
3rd row: 1 sbn, increase, 4 sbn, increase, 3 sbn, increase, 4 sbn, increase, 2 sbn (22 loops)
4th row: 1 sbn, increase, 6 sbn, increase, 4 sbn, increase, 6 sbn, increase, 1 sbn (26)
Rows 5-7: no changes (26)
We knit rows of decreases - i.e. sock
We knit 1 sc to align the beginning of knitting.
Row 8 – 8 sc, fold the fabric along the cast-on edge chain, there should be 5 loops left to the middle), decrease, 6 sc, decrease, 8 sc (24)
Row 9 – 8 sc, 4 decreases, 8 sc (20). The decreases should be above the decreases of the previous row so that the shape of the nose is neat.
Row 10: 7 sc, 3 decreases, 7 sc (17)
Row 11: * decrease, 1 sc, * repeat 5 times, decrease (11)
Rows 12-15: change to white thread, no change (11)
Rows 16-17: knit in red (11)
Row 18: white (11)
Rows 19-20: blue (11)
21st row: white (11)
Rows 22-24: yellow thread (11) (if you want the legs a little longer, you can add a couple more rows here)
Row 25: black (11)
Row 26: 1 sc, * increase, 1 sc, * repeat 5 times (16)
Row 27: * 1 sc, increase, * repeat 8 times (24)
Row 28: * 2 sc, increase, * repeat 8 times (32)
Row 29: no change (32)
Leave a long thread for sewing. You can insert a wire.

Hands (2 parts)

ch 5
1st row: starting from the second loop from the hook, knit 3 sc in each loop, 3 sc in the outer loop, knitting goes to the other side of the chain, 2 sc, increase in the last (10)
2nd row: increase in the first loop, 2 sc, 3 increases, 2 sc, 2 increases (16)
3-4 row: no changes (16)
Row 5: * 2 sc, decrease, * repeat 4 times (12)
Row 6: no change (12)
Row 7: * 2 sc, decrease, * repeat 3 times (9)
Rows 8-21: no changes (9)
Row 22: change to white thread, in a circle (9)
23 row: 9 increases (18)
Rows 24-26: no changes (18)
Row 27: * 1 sc, decrease, * repeat 6 times (12)
Row 28: decrease until the hole closes, tighten.
The palm itself does not need to be filled with synthetic down so that it remains flat, but the handles do need filler.

Eyes (2 parts)

2 ch (it is better to knit with iris)
1st row: in the second loop from the hook, knit 7 sc (7)
2nd row: change the thread to blue or blue, 7 increases (14)
3rd row: change the thread to white, * 1 sc, increase, * repeat 7 times (21)
4th row: * 2 sc, increase, * repeat 7 times (28)
If necessary, knit another row in white (after trying the eyes to the body).

2 ch (it is better to knit with iris)
1st row: in the second loop from the hook, knit 6 sc (6)
2nd row: 6 increases (12)
3rd row: * 3 sc, increase, * repeat 4 times (16)
Rows 4-7: no changes (16)
Row 8: * 2 sc, decrease, * repeat 4 times (12)
Rows 9-13: no changes (12)
Add a little filler and leave the thread for sewing.

Teeth (2 parts)

ch 5
1st row: starting from the second loop from the hook, knit 4 sc, ch rise
2nd row: 4 dc
Sew on the short side.

Tie
ch 3
1st row: without lifting loop!!! knit 1 sc into the second loop, then increase, turn the knitting
2nd row: again we do not make a lifting loop, we knit a sc and an increase
3-8 rows: exactly the same
Row 9: decrease
10th row: we knit 3 ch (two of which are lifting loops), in the first from the beginning we knit 5 hdc, 1 ch of lifting, turn and 5 sc. The tie is ready

Squarepants ruffle

There are no assembly features, the main thing is to design the muzzle as identical to the original as possible. You can knit the spots, but this option will not always look good. We embroider eyelashes, a smile, cheeks and you can embroider a collar.

They asked me to knit SpongeBob for a 2.5 year old girl. I started looking for descriptions of the work and the toy itself on the Internet, but it turned out to be not so easy. Something was definitely not right. I found a nice picture of this weirdo and decided to knit it myself. Here is the result of my creativity))





SpongeBob (26 cm)
Master Class


Yarn Pekhorka (50% merino wool 50% acrylic)
Hook No. 2
Designations:
VP - air loop
p - row
p - loop
sc - single crochet
ss - connecting post
pr - increase (in 1 loop 2 single crochets)
dec - decrease (2 single crochets together)
* - repeat

Front and back



3 ch and 24 sbn - repeat 21 r

5 Switch to white yarn 4 r


Knit 2 of these parts.

They asked me to knit SpongeBob for a 2.5 year old girl. I started looking for descriptions of the work and the toy itself on the Internet, but it turned out to be not so easy. Something was definitely not right. I found a nice picture of this weirdo and decided to knit it myself. Here is the result of my creativity))





SpongeBob (26 cm)
Master Class


Yarn Pekhorka (50% merino wool 50% acrylic)
Hook No. 2
Designations:
VP - air loop
p - row
p - loop
sc - single crochet
ss - connecting post
pr - increase (in 1 loop 2 single crochets)
dec - decrease (2 single crochets together)
* - repeat

Front and back



3 ch and 24 sbn - repeat 21 r

5 Switch to white yarn 4 r


Knit 2 of these parts.

Although I am not a fan of this cartoon character of the same name, I had to invent it at the request of a child. MK elements, diagrams, descriptions included.

Why do I say elements? The fact is that everything was invented by me on the go, initially without diagrams; I compiled them based on the results of the work, but I tried to make them as accurate as possible. Everything should work out, despite some confusion. The soft toy was not the simplest, but quite cute, in my opinion.

So, let's get down to reviewing what you will need to knit a toy cartoon from materials.

First of all, of course, this yarn. I chose cotton from different brands that was available.

Yellow threads - Anabel from Alpina 120 meters in 50 grams. 1 skein was barely enough. A very pleasant thread to work with.

For the trousers I chose a brown dressy yarn 94% mercerized cotton, 6% metallized fibers (polyester, polyamide) also from Alpina called Anita. Here the yardage is 50 grams/275 meters, almost a full skein was used, I knitted it in 3 threads to bring the yardage closer to the yellow part.

White threads are Iris and other cotton with an average meter of 150 meters in 25 grams.

Black cotton yarn Daphne 10 from Madame Tricote 50 grams/282 meters.

Leftover red and blue Crystal acrylic yarn from Vita for socks, smile, eyes and tie 50g/275m.

Hooks and knitting needles. Steel hooks No. 1 and No. 2, and large knitting needles 4.5 mm, because... The pattern should be very perforated to make the sponge look more convincing. taken from https://www.site

And that's not all, other more specific materials will be needed.

Needles for stitching I needed 2 pieces, one very large “gypsy” one with a blunt end and thinner, but also long with a sharp end and a wide eye.

Spongebob I decided it should be with a sponge and used a real yellow large sponge, something from the category for washing cars. First, I washed it thoroughly with soap, wrung it out and dried it on a radiator for 2-3 days.

But I didn’t like how an ordinary sponge looked through the mesh of the knitted pattern of the upper yellow part, so I used a “case” for the sponge - a large yellow furry one microfiber cloth. I also washed and dried it first.

To stuff pants, legs, arms, and nose I used padding polyester, torn into small pieces.

It seems that everything has to do with materials. Now directly about knitting.

The pattern for the “head” was knitted on needles No. 4.5 yellow yarn(thread in 2 additions). The main idea is to have both “holes” and “bumps”; the surface should not be flat. taken from https://www.site

To begin with, I cast on 20 loops (the pattern repeat is 4 loops).
First row - purl all rows.
Second row - *3 stitches together, knitting behind the back wall. In the fourth we knit 3 loops at once - knit, purl and knit again.* Repeat 5 times until the loops run out.
The third row is all purl.
Fourth row - *In the first row we knit 3 loops at once - knit, purl and knit again. Next 3 stitches knit together behind back wall.* Repeat 5 times until stitches run out.
Next, continue to repeat rows 1-4 to the desired length and bind off all the loops. My “shred” was 8 x 22.5 centimeters.

In the end, the one where the back rows look like the front ones should remain on the front side. taken from https://www.site

Then she folded it, attached it and crocheted along the edges with single crochets, sewing the sides to the base. taken from https://www.site

I turned it inside out, crocheted No. 2 in single crochets along the bottom edge (there should be 56 of them around the entire circumference) and carefully “stuck” a sponge wrapped in a microfiber cloth inside. taken from https://www.site

Then I cut off the yellow thread (it was working in 2 folds) and secured it.

I attached a white thread (it took 5 folds to reach the yellow yardage) and knitted 3 rows of single crochets (1 chain/crochet stitch, 56 single crochet/sc, 1 connecting stitch/ss). The white thread was also cut and secured.

The brown one went into 4 folds (how to make 4 folds from 1 skein) I attached it and knitted it similarly to the white rows, only there were 5 such rows. I tore off the thread and fastened it. The result was like in the photo below, a blank for the body with a head, but without a “bottom”. taken from https://www.site

The lower part was also knitted with brown threads in 4 folds according to the pattern below. taken from https://www.site

And I also “sewed” the resulting bottom part with loops from the top finished part“torso-head” using single crochets. When there was only a little stitching left to do, I filled the empty spaces with padding poly (where there was not enough sponge), closed the circle, broke the thread and secured it. All ends should remain invisible inside the toy, and the last one should be tucked in there.

If when you “sewed” the yellow part, this “seam” was obtained by turning it inside out, then here it will remain outside, then this row needs to be turned a little so that it is directed towards the legs. taken from https://www.site

Eyes- 2 parts.

I knitted them with thin threads in 1 addition with crochet No. 1. Each row begins air loop rise and ends with a connecting post.

Row 1 (6 stitches in total) - black yarn amigurumi starting ring with 6 sc.

Row 2 (12) - 2 sc in each.

Row 3 (12) - switched to blue yarn, 1 sc in each sc of the previous row.

Row 4 (24) - switch to white yarn, 2 sc in each sc in the previous row.

5, 6 rows (24) - 1 sc each

Row 7 (48) - 2 sc in each

Row 8 (48) - 1 in each RLS

Row 9 (48) - transition to black threads. 1 sc in each sc of the previous row.

Eyelashes. With the help of connecting posts, I moved 1 loop in a circle. 4 VP and 3 sc in these air loops, starting from the second on the hook (i.e. skip 1 loop, sc in the rest). SS in the same sc from where the eyelash “grew” and 2 more SS to move around the circle to the next place for the eyelash. As a result, there are 3 eyelashes and between them 2 sc from the ninth row of the eye.

It turns out like in the photo below. For sewing, leave a very long end of black thread. taken from https://www.site

Nose- 1 piece.

Using yellow thread in 1 addition, hook No. 1. According to the diagram below. There is an amigurumi starting ring, air lifting loops, single crochets, connecting columns, half-columns.

Underlined RLS mean a decrease, i.e. 2 sc in the previous row are worked as one. taken from https://www.site

The finished yellow nose is shown in the photo. The thread should be cut long enough to sew the nose to the face. taken from https://www.site

Teeth and smile.

I used black yarn to make a chain in 2 folds, and sewed the teeth to it. I worked the sc on top with yellow threads, and then switched from sc to half-columns. Then the cheeks were also crossed next to the sc with red threads.

I knitted the teeth in straight and reverse rows. Row 1 - 4 VP + 1 VP lift, 4 RLS and turn. 2nd row - 1 VP lift, 4 RLS and turn, 3rd row - 1 VP, 4 RLS. Tear off the thread and fasten. Stretch the part and give it a shape after sewing. taken from https://www.site

Collar- 2 parts.

White threads in 2 folds, hook No. 1. A chain of 8 VPs was tied in a circle. 1 VP rise, 1 RLS, 1 PST (half-dc), 1 Dc (double crochet), 1 SS2N (double crochet), 1 SS2N, 1 SSN, 1 PST, 2 RLS in 1 outer loop of the chain, 1 RLS in 6 middle VPs on the reverse side (since we are going in a circle) and 2 RLS on the outermost side, from where they began to tie the chain. 1 SS in the VP that was the VP of the lift. Fasten the thread, tear it off with a long end for sewing.

Tie- 1 piece.

Red thread in 2 layers, hook No. 2. It turned out to be a long piece, which I folded with a small knot, giving it the shape of a tie.

A chain of 25 VP passed along 1 side 19 RLS (with the second VP from the hook), 1 PST, 1 SSN, 1 PST, 1 RLS. The last VP of the chain will remain here 1 SS. Switched to reverse side, how would it be like circular knitting if I repeated the row in a mirror image, i.e. I skipped the first VP of the starting chain where the SS was already knitted, then sc, pst, dc, pst and sc until the penultimate loop, in which 1 ss. I secured and tore off the thread with the long end so that I could sew it on later. taken from https://www.site

Hand with four fingers- 2 parts.

Hook No. 2 in 1 yellow thread. First they knit in turns long fingers 3 pieces.
First row - amigurumi ring, VP lift, 4 RLS, 1 SS.
Second, third, fourth - VP lifting, 4 RLS, 1 SS.
Break the thread and fasten. I left long ends because... for the “palm” I used them as filling; if there are not enough of them, you can fill them with padding polyester.

Short finger it is knitted similarly to the large one, but 1 row shorter, and the thread does not come off after that, but the knitting of the hand continues. taken from https://www.site

On the smaller finger I knitted 1 VP instep, 2 sc. I placed a long finger next to it and knitted 2 sc on it, the second long finger and 2 sc, the third long finger and all 4 sc on it in a circle. Thus, she walked around to the other side and 2 sc on the 2 long fingers remaining on the other side and 2 sc on the short one. 1 SS completes the row in a circle.

Second row of palms - 1 VP, 16 RLS, 1 SS

The third row of the palm is 1 VP, 2 RLS, 12 RLS, 2 RLS (there should be RLS near the short finger, near the long RLS). 1 SS

Fourth row - 1 VP and 2 together RLS (8 loops will remain instead of 16.) 1 SS. Place tails of thread and padding polyester filling the palm.

Fifth row - 1 VP, 2 together RLS (4 loops remain) 1SS

The sixth and subsequent 10 rows (11 rows of 4 RLS each) - 1 VP, 4 RLS, 1 SS. Tear off the yellow thread, fasten it, and tuck the tail along the resulting lace.

Attach a white thread (I have a No. 2 hook and Iris in 2 folds). 1 VP rise, 10 sc distributed evenly around the circle (2-3 sc in 1 yellow), 1 SS closes the row in a circle.

2 white row (10) - 1 VP, 10 RLS, 1 SS

3rd row (20) - 1 VP, 2 sc in 1 (becomes 20 in a row), 1 SS.

4th and 5th row (20) - 1 VP, 20 RLS, 1 SS.

Row 6 (14) - VP 1, repeat *2 sc together, 1 sc*. 1 sc will not fit into the repeat, just knit it separately, 1 sc and 1 dc in a circle will close the row.

7 row (11) - VP, 2 RLS, 1 RLS in 2 previous rows, 2 RLS, 1 in 2 RLS, 2 RLS, 1 in 2 RLS, 2 RLS, 1SS

8 row (7) - VP, 1 RLS, 1 in 2 RLS, 1 RLS, 1 in 2 RLS, 1 RLS, 1 in 2 RLS, 1 in 2 RLS, 1 SS

9 row (3) - VP, 1 in 3 RLS of the previous row, 1 in 2 RLS, 1 in 2 RLS, 1 SS

Pull the remaining loops, break the thread with the long end for sewing, and carefully fasten. It turns out 2 ready hands For soft toy SpongeBob as in the photo below. taken from https://www.site

Leg with boot, sock and pant leg- 2 parts.

Shoe with black thread in 3 folds, hook No. 2. I started with an amigurumi starting ring with 1 ch instep, 6 sc, 1 sl.

2nd row of boot toe (12) - 1 VP each, 2 RLS in 1 of the last row, 1 SS

3rd row (12) - 1 VP, 12 RLS, 1 SS.

4, 5 row (12) - 1 VP, 3 RLS, 2 PST, 2 SSN, 2 PST, 3 RLS, 1 SS

Row 6 (12) - 1 VP, 12 RLS, 1 SS

Row 7 (no longer circular) - VP, 5 RLS, turn

8th row (5) - VP, 5 RLS, turn

9 row (5) - VP, 5 RLS, turn

10 row (5) - VP, 5 RLS, turn

11 row (5) - VP, 5 RLS

Row 12 (17=4+4+5+4) - VP, 4 RLS, catching them to the base of the columns of the previous row from the inside, i.e. The “pigtail” should remain at work. She will play the role of a heel. They are also knitted along the edge of rows 7-11, i.e. again we go into circular work, I got 4 sc along this edge. Then the remaining free columns from the 6th row are used. Of these, I first knitted in the usual way (not at the base of the column) 2 1 RLS each, then 3 together, then 2 1 RLS each (i.e. from the 6th row a total of 5 RLS went into 12). And I moved to the second side from rows 7-10 at the base of the rows, knitted 4 RLS and combined the resulting row into a circle with a connecting stitch.

The result of the work is in the photo below. taken from https://www.site

Row 13 (20=1+2+2+1+12+2) - 1 VP lift, 1 RLS, 2 in 1 RLS, 2 in 1 RLS, 1 RLS - this is the heel area. Sides in a circle, 1 sc in each sc of the previous row, except for the very last one, 2 sc in it. 1 SS closes the circle. The total number of sc in this row is 20.

Row 14 (16) - 1 VP, 1 in 2, 1 in 2 RLS, 6 RLS, 1 in 2 RLS, 1 in 2 RLS, 6 RLS, 1 SS. Fill the blank with padding polyester.

Row 15 (8) - 1 VP, 1 in 2 RLS of the previous row, 1 SS.

Let's move on to white threads (I have No. 1 hook and Iris in 2 folds). The black ones need to be cut with a very long end, you will need it a little later.

16-20 row (8) - 1 VP, 8 RLS, 1 SS

Using the black thread left over from knitting the boot, you need to sew from top to bottom the part where the needle is stuck in the photo below. This fixes the bend of the boot. taken from https://www.site

Switch to red threads in 2 additions.

21 row (8) - 1 VP, 8 RLS, 1 SS

White threads again.

22 row (8) - 1 VP, 8 RLS, 1 SS

Blue threads in 2 folds.

23 row - (8) - 1 VP, 8 RLS, 1 SS

Row 24 - (8) - White threads. 1 VP, 8 RLS, 1 SS

Row 25 (8) - Bring out the tail from the black threads along the “pipe” and with them 1 VP, 8 RLS, 1 SS.

Cut all the threads, fasten them, and stuff the “socks” that have formed in the form of a “tube” with them or padding polyester.

Yellow threads in 1 addition.

26-31 row (8) - 1 VP, 8 RLS, 1 SS. Fasten, trim.

Brown threads in 3 layers, hook No. 2.

Row 32 (16) - 1 VP, 2 in 1 RLS, 1 SS

Row 33 (24) - VP 1, repeat *1 RLS, 2 in 1 RLS*, 1 SS

34 row (24) - 1 VP, 1 RLS at the base of the RLS of the previous row, i.e. again we leave the “pigtail” outside.

35 and 36 row (24) - 1 VP, 24 RLS, 1 SS.

We fill the remaining empty space in the leg blanks. Leave the brown thread with long tail to then sew the legs in place. Photo of the detail below. taken from https://www.site

Assembling a toy - the cartoon character Sponge Bob

First I sewed everything on the face, then the arms and legs. Lastly, I inserted a belt from a VP chain into 3 threads, measuring the length simply along the circumference.

It turned out that in the end he even stood without support (photo below)! You just need to find the balance point. taken from https://www.site

Here is a knitted Mr. SpongeBob measuring 25 centimeters in height, 5 cm in thickness and 15 cm in width including arms and legs. It seems to me that he came out similar to the original, such a positive comrade, even handsome. Good luck and creative success to you. Don't forget to show off your work by sending it to my email. taken from https://www.site

Please also report any problems you notice!

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VP - air loop
sc - single crochet
increase – 2 sc in one loop
decrease - knit two sc together
dc - double crochet
increase dc - two dc in one loop
Decrease dc – knit 2 dc together
ss – connecting post
* repeat

Thread – thin cotton, hook No. 1.5, 1

Torso

Dial 16 ch
1st row: starting from the second loop from the hook we knit 14 sc, in the last loop - 3 sc, turn the knitting clockwise, 12 sc, 2 increases (33)
2nd row: increase, 13 sbn, 3 increases, 13 sbn, increase, 2 sbn (38)
3rd row: 1 sbn, increase, 13 sbn, increase, 3 sbn, increase, 14 sbn, increase, 3 sbn (42)
4th row: 1 sbn, increase, 15 sbn, increase, 4 sbn, increase, 15 sbn, increase, 3 sbn (46)
Rows 5-7: no changes (46)
Rows 8-10: change to white thread, no change (46)
Row 11: change to a yellow thread, no changes (46), knit the last ss and do 2 ch rises (don’t forget to knit them at the beginning of each row! Now we don’t knit in a circle!!!)
Rows 12-15: 46 dc
Row 16: 2 dc, * 6 dc, increase dc, * repeat 6 times, 2 dc (52)
Row 17: no change (52)
Row 18: 1 dc, * 4 dc, increase dc, * repeat 10 times, 1 dc (62)
Rows 19-21: no changes (62)
Row 22: 1 dc, * 5 dc, increase dc, * repeat 10 times, 1 dc (72)
Row 23: no change (72)
Row 24: 1 dc, * 13 dc, increase dc, * repeat 5 times, 1 dc (77)
Row 25: no changes (77 sc)
Row 26: * 5 dc, decrease dc, * repeat 11 times (66)
Row 27: 1 dc, * 2 dc, decrease dc, * repeat 16 times, 1 dc (50)
Row 28: attention! Now you have a conditional rectangle, where there are two longer sides and two shorter ones. We knit decreases on the short sides, and decreases with dc on the long sides.
* decrease dc, dc, * repeat 5 times, 5 decrease dc, * decrease dc, dc, * repeat 5 times, 5 decrease dc (30 loops)

Fold in the long sides. Sew carefully.

p.s. If you want the top of SpongeBob to be even wider, then make more increases (up to 92 loops, for example, increasing the height by 2-3 rows). In this case, there will also be a little more rows of decreases.

Legs (2 parts)

ch 6
1st row: starting from the second loop from the hook, knit 4 sc in each loop, 3 sc in the outer loop, knitting goes to the other side of the chain, 3 sc, increase in the last (12)
2nd row: increase in the first loop, 3 sc, 3 increases, 3 sc, 2 increases (18)
3rd row: 1 sbn, increase, 4 sbn, increase, 3 sbn, increase, 4 sbn, increase, 2 sbn (22 loops)
4th row: 1 sbn, increase, 6 sbn, increase, 4 sbn, increase, 6 sbn, increase, 1 sbn (26)
Rows 5-7: no changes (26)
We knit rows of decreases - i.e. sock
We knit 1 sc to align the beginning of knitting.
Row 8 – 8 sc, fold the fabric along the cast-on edge chain, there should be 5 loops left to the middle), decrease, 6 sc, decrease, 8 sc (24)
Row 9 – 8 sc, 4 decreases, 8 sc (20). The decreases should be above the decreases of the previous row so that the shape of the nose is neat.
Row 10: 7 sc, 3 decreases, 7 sc (17)
Row 11: * decrease, 1 sc, * repeat 5 times, decrease (11)
Rows 12-15: change to white thread, no change (11)
Rows 16-17: knit in red (11)
Row 18: white (11)
Rows 19-20: blue (11)
21st row: white (11)
Rows 22-24: yellow thread (11) (if you want the legs a little longer, you can add a couple more rows here
Row 25: black (11)
Row 26: 1 sc, * increase, 1 sc, * repeat 5 times (16)
Row 27: * 1 sc, increase, * repeat 8 times (24)
Row 28: * 2 sc, increase, * repeat 8 times (32)
Row 29: no change (32)
Leave a long thread for sewing. You can insert a wire.

Hands (2 parts)

ch 5
1st row: starting from the second loop from the hook, knit 3 sc in each loop, 3 sc in the outer loop, knitting goes to the other side of the chain, 2 sc, increase in the last (10)
2nd row: increase in the first loop, 2 sc, 3 increases, 2 sc, 2 increases (16)
3-4 row: no changes (16)
Row 5: * 2 sc, decrease, * repeat 4 times (12)
Row 6: no change (12)
Row 7: * 2 sc, decrease, * repeat 3 times (9)
Rows 8-21: no changes (9)
Row 22: change to white thread, in a circle (9)
23 row: 9 increases (18)
Rows 24-26: no changes (18)
Row 27: * 1 sc, decrease, * repeat 6 times (12)
Row 28: decrease until the hole closes, tighten.
The palm itself does not need to be filled with synthetic down so that it remains flat, but the handles do need filler.

Eyes (2 parts)

2 ch (it is better to knit with iris)
1st row: in the second loop from the hook, knit 7 sc (7)
2nd row: change the thread to blue or blue, 7 increases (14)
3rd row: change the thread to white, * 1 sc, increase, * repeat 7 times (21)
4th row: * 2 sc, increase, * repeat 7 times (28)
If necessary, knit another row in white (after trying the eyes to the body).

Nose

2 ch (it is better to knit with iris)
1st row: in the second loop from the hook, knit 6 sc (6)
2nd row: 6 increases (12)
3rd row: * 3 sc, increase, * repeat 4 times (16)
Rows 4-7: no changes (16)
Row 8: * 2 sc, decrease, * repeat 4 times (12)
Rows 9-13: no changes (12)
Add a little filler and leave the thread for sewing.

Teeth (2 parts)

ch 5
1st row: starting from the second loop from the hook, knit 4 sc, ch rise
2nd row: 4 dc
Sew on the short side.

Tie

ch 3
1st row: without lifting loop!!! knit 1 sc into the second loop, then increase, turn the knitting
2nd row: again we do not make a lifting loop, we knit a sc and an increase
3-8 rows: exactly the same
Row 9: decrease
10th row: we knit 3 ch (two of which are lifting loops), in the first from the beginning we knit 5 hdc, 1 ch of lifting, turn and 5 sc. The tie is ready

Squarepants ruffle
There are no assembly features, the main thing is to design the muzzle as identical to the original as possible. You can knit the spots, but this option will not always look good. We embroider eyelashes, a smile, cheeks and you can embroider a collar.